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Two of his books
--Bone in the Throat and Kitchen Confidential -- are in my library.
What always excited me so much about him was:
1) his fierce, wild pirate side (restaurant kitchens apparently are lawless and multilingual dens of iniquity requiring frequent burnings and lashings) and
2) his completely uninhibited appetite and omnivorous nature as in, it's not just that he'll cook anything but that he's eager to discover, taste and eat absolutely anything, smirk. Urchin eggs, you name it . . .
Oh yeah. Hot power of story, his!